9 THINGS YOUR HAIRSTYLIST SHOULD BE TELLING YOU, BUT ISN'T

I find it interesting when talking to my client, things they should know but don't. I believe  education is the key to having beautiful hair, nails and skin. Like trying to use a bottle of Hairspray as a deodorant, it just doesn't work. If you don't have the knowledge or education on a specific topic, you can't expect it to go smoothly, Right? So let's get into the 10 things your hairstylist should be telling you but isn't.

1. USING A HAIR BRUSH 

Yes there is a wrong way and a right way to using a brush on your hair. The reason you should know the proper way of using a brush is because if used improperly, it can cause loads of damage. You never want to use a brush on wet hair, never, not even a wet brush. When your hair is wet it can stretch 50% more then its dried length. If you over stretch your hair it will break. If you are always finding a ton of hair in your brush, this is why. Your hair is breaking off and getting stuck in your brush. While your hair is wet use a good static free comb to minimize tangles. Once your hair is completely dry then you are welcome to use a brush.

The proper way to brush your hair is to start at the bottom and work your way to the top (on dry hair, dear). Once all the tangles are brushed out, then start at the scalp and brush to the ends in long strokes. You are not brushing your hair to remove tangles, you brush your hair to distribute your natural oils throughout your hair.

2. SHAMPOOING 

Bet you didn't know there was a right way to shampoo, did you? Well there certainly is, and chances are you are not doing it. What's the main reason you shampoo your hair? To get it clean, right? We hold most of the dirt and oils on our scalp, so you really only need to wash your scalp to remove them. As you lather up remember you are removing beneficial oils that help protect your hair from damage, heat and chemicals. There is no need to shampoo your midshaft and end, just the scalp is all you need to worry about. 

When you rinse the shampoo it is running down the rest of your hair and that enough to pull the dirt off. You have probably heard that it's not good to shampoo your hair every day and that's correct. Every time you remove oil from your hair, it has to make more, so the more you remove the more you get. Instead of shampooing every day, use conditioner instead. That is more than enough to remove unwanted dirt and oils and give it a freshening. A great shampoo to keep moisture is Virtue Labs Recovery, it helps to repair damage and retains moisture

3. CONDITIONING 

You can't talk about shampooing and then not mention conditioning, and there is definitely a right way of doing it. So it deserves to be on the list of things your hairstylist isn't telling you. Chances are they are not telling you that if you don't remove the excess water from your hair, then it's not doing you any good. You might as well just squirt it down the drain, at least then you could watch it being wasted. If you look at the picture below, that is a hair strand under a microscope. Notice the top layer looks like scales, that's the cuticle. Under the cuticle is the cortex, it acts like a sponge soaking up everything. 

If your cortex is full of water it cannot soak up the conditioner you're putting on it. The conditioner just sits on top of the cuticle just waiting to be rinsed off. Yes, your hair may feel softer and easier to comb but it isn't getting into the cortex where it needs to be. My suggestion is after rinsing your shampoo out take a towel and squeeze some of the water out before putting on the conditioner. It takes only seconds to do and your hair will benefit from it so much more.

4. HEAT

Heat is a big one, so I am sure your hairstylist has told you using heat isn't good , Right?  That's true, it isn't good for your hair but lets be realistic, we are all going to use heat at some point. When you do use heat make sure you are using a really good heat protector. Heat protectors come in oils, sprays and creams and the best in my opinion is the creams and oils. The sprays usually have a form of alcohol in them which can dry out your hair even more. What these protectors do is coat your hair so that the product is taking the heat instead. I really like using Cliove's Styling Cream on my hair, it isn't heavy, doesn't leave buildup and it smells amazing. 

Temperature is another really important factor you should pay attention to, there is a reason your styling tools allow you to change it. If your styling tools don't have the option to change the temperature, TOSS IT! I don't care if it is made of 14 karat gold and diamonds, that tool can not predict the condition of your hair or the texture. If you have color treated hair the temperature should be no higher than 350 degrees, same goes for fine hair. The only reason your hot tools should reach 450 degrees is if you have super curly course hair, I am talking like goat hair course. If your texture is not like goat hair then 400 degrees to 425 degrees is more than enough. The reason your styling tools have the 450 degree temperature is for keratin treatments, that is the temperature needed to open the cuticle and penetrate the cortex, which you don't need to do. 

 

5. Teasing 

Growing up your mother probably told you that teasing wasn't nice, she was right and mother's usually are. I'm not going to talk about that type of teasing, the teasing I am talking about is the kind you do to your hair. Hey, I love volume and body in my hair as much as the next gal, I just don't tease to get it. Teasing causes split ends and breakage which over time causes major flyaways and frizz. If you are one that needs the extra volume that teasing brings, there are alternatives.

My favorite alternative to teasing it the flip and push method, which is what I call it. I take a section of hair and flip it over, spray some hairspray at the root, flip it back over and push it up with my hands and spray a little bit more hairspray to seal the deal. It isn't a long lasting method but it works.

Another alternative is to use root lifter and blow dry your roots in the opposite direction of the way you want it to lay. Blow drying your hair like this does create alot more volume at the root and it is much better than teasing. You could also purchase a crimping iron and crimp your roots under the top sections of your hair. That gives your root some texture and in turn creates extra volume.

6. Products 

This one could take all day to discuss because there are hundreds of different products on the market. Some are absolutely amazing and work very well, while others are not worth the bottles they come in. But I would like to talk about a few things I see a lot of clients doing that they shouldn't.

I constantly hear, I can never get my hair to look the same way it does when you fix it. The reason behind this is products, if you are not armed with the proper tools to do the job, it won't get done right or at all. You can't leave the salon without products and expect your hair to look the same the next time you style it.  You can't leave the salon with products in hand and expect your hair to look the same if you weren't educated on how to use them. So with that in mind, what are some products you should be using and are you using them right?

Mousse & Gels are the number one products I notice clients using improperly, Placing the product in the palm of your hands, emulsify into the palm and apply to the base. The most common mistake when working with a gel or mousse is we apply it all over. Where do you want the volume to take place? The roots, right?  So that's where you should apply it.

Oils are amazing for taming frizz and flyaways, it is also a great heat protector. Remember when using oils only concentrate on the areas you need it. If you are using it as a general heat protector, apply it to your midshaft and ends. If you are using it to tame flyaways or frizz only apply to the areas that are in need. If you use oils all over it can cause your hair to lose volume or look greasy.

7. HAIRCOLOR 

This is a major one and really should have been number one on the list. I want to discuss just how often you should be coloring your hair and what type of color is needed. I am actually working on another article just on this topic alone, because it is a important one. You don't need to do a complete all over color or highlights every time you visit the salon. You also don't need to use a permanent color every time you visit the salon either. It can get expensive and it can cause unnecessary damage to your hair. That being said, in order for this to work you have to stay on a schedule. You can set your schedule for every 4 to 8 weeks, but you have to stick with it. Your first initial color service will set the foundation, your second color service is to freshen up your color and cost a fraction of a complete service. The appointment following that would be to cover any regrowth you have, the forth to freshen again, and so on. 

I won't get into any more details than that because explaining this routine and the benefits will take a complete article, which I am working on. I will include the link to that article here.....and if you are interested in learning more, you can choose to read at your convenience, just don't forget to come back to this one and finish reading. Sticking to this schedule will not only save you money, but will save your hair from damage as well.  The reasons your hairstylist doesn't tell you this is because they just don't know or they don't want to lose out on the cash.

8. BLOW DRYING 

Oh yes, this is my favorite one and it is the one that bothers me the most. If not done properly, blow drying will cause major frizz, heat damage and split ends. I hate watching someone either flip their hair upside down and go to town with the dryer!! No girls! You are causing so much damage and frizz by drying your hair this way. The proper way to dry your hair is to hold the dryer pointing downwards on your hair. When you flip your hair over, or just haphazardly wave the dryer around, you are ruffing up the cuticle. Your goal when drying is to smooth the cuticle and lay it down, not raise it up.  

Smoothing the cuticle will create shine and softness and it prevents split ends. Its almost like using a flatiron on your hair without the direct heat. The next time you break out the blow dryer, use your fingers to gently pull the hair, while directing the airflow down the hair shaft. Your hair will sparkle like a diamond in the sky and thank you for being nice.

9. PONYTAILS 

Unless you have short hair, you have worn a ponytail, you may be wearing it now. What are you using to hold it in place, an elastic band, scrunchies, rubber band? I can't tell you how many times I have seen clients come into the salon with major breakage from ponytails. I have seen where it has broken off all the hair around the front hairline, leaving only an inch of hair left. We either wear it way to tight or use the wrong type of holder, resulting in catastrophic damage. If you must wear your hair back in a pony, please don't use elastic or rubber. Use a cloth or cord holder instead, they prevent way less damage. Hair clips are another really good option to use and they don't hold the hair so tight that it breaks.

Like I said earlier, good hair can only be good if you have the right education and proper tools. Hair is an amazing thing, it has a life of its own and it is one of the first things people see when they look at you. You want your hair to be healthy, shiny and full of life. Now you are armed with some great knowledge to get your hair looking it's best and keeping it that way.